3)Slip the first gear thrust washer and needle bearing inner race on the pinion shaft.

4)Press together all parts or set with a soft drift and hammer.

5)Install round nut (slotted nut) and tighten to 90 ft. lbs. or seat tightly using hammer and drift or pipe wrench. Newer nuts have a sleeve that is staked against shaft splines to lock. (Do this in three spots around the shaft).

6)Install pinion bearing retainer plate.

7)Install the first gear shims. End play should be checked after the synchro hub for first and second gears has been installed by checking between the thrust washer and first gear. Clearance on the high side is preferred .004" - .010". Thrust washers are available in various thicknesses should end play be off. Later model transmissions have a wider first gear and no oil grooves on each side.

8)Place first gear synohro ring on cone surface of the gear -
remember - don't interchange synchronizer rings.

g)Now assemble the first and second gear synchro unit.

10)Slide the operating sleeve (which is reverse gear also) on the synchro hub making sure its shifting plate slots are in line with the slots in the clutch gear.

11)Put the shifting plates into position and install the two snap ring springs, offset to each other. Be sure that the ring ends are engaged behind the shifting plates.

12)With the longer hub portion toward the face of the drive pinion splines slip the assembled synchro unit on the shaft.

13)Turn the first geelr synchro ring until the shifting plates engage the slots. Late type synchro rings have a wider shoulder and cannot be used with old style hub.

14)Install second gear synchro ring with notches toward shifting plates and then slide second gear onto shaft.

15)Install third gear, its needle bearing, and two washers together with larger diameter touching third gear.

16)Install the spacer (or helical spring). Helical spring arrangement is adjusted by means of different thicknesses of snap rings - desired third gear movement is about .005" - .010". Check clearance using a feeler gauge between gear and snap ring.

17)If stock washer and spacer are used the washer must have a preload of 220 lbs. If the special Be Cu washers and spacer are used no adjustment is necessary.

18)Insert the fourth gear woodruff key into the drive pinion shaft on models using it. Newer models are splined.

19)Heat in oil both the fourth gear and needle bearing inner race to approx. 190¥ - 200¥ (exception - '68 and later splined gear).

20)Slide fourth gear onto pinion shaft with the wide shoulder facing the spacer sleeve or helical spring, depending on model.

21)Using VW tool #426 or a 15/16" deepwell socket, press fourth gear and needle bearing inner race fully into position.

MAIN SHAFT TEARDOWN
(See photo #35 for parts and identification)
1)Remove the thrust washer
2) Remove fourth gear
3) Remove the needle bearing cage
4) Remove synchro ring.
5) Support shaft behind third gear and press off the inner needle bearing race, third - fourth gear synchro assembly and third gear.
6)Remove the third gear needle bearing case
7) Inspect the third - fourth gear synchro assembly and if necessary disassemble.

INSPECT ALL PIECES FOR WEAR

1)Inspect the splined part of main shaft for wear, chips, etc.
2)Check the clutch sealing - seating surfaces of the oil seal in
the case. Check the rear main shaft for scores.
3)Check rear @ shaft where it fits into the pilot bushing for rust or bad scoring,
4)Inspect first and second gears.
5) Inspect needle bearings and surfaces.
6) Check third and fourth gears for wear.
7)Put front main shaft between two points and check contact surfaces of third gear needle bearing for run out. Run out should not exceed .006".
8)Clean inside of synchro rings with wire brush - replace when past wear limit. Clearance between the synchro ring teeth and gear should be .043" with a wear limit of .024".

ASSEMBLY
Before proceeding note the following:

1)The marks on the hub and sleeve of third - fourth gear synchro assembly should coincide
2)The hub is chamfered on the third gear side.
3)The groove on the sleeve should be facing fourth gear
4) If the hub or sleeve has to be replaced, they must be replaced as a pair
5)Assemble the synchro unit for third and fourth gears. The operating sleeve and the synchro hub are paired and etched for
identification to keep baclash at a minimum.