a tremendous amount of strength, but can be separated undamaged using a propane torch, to heat it up, then press it off, saving your expensive gear.
D) Close ratio gear sets Close ratio gears are available from
several sources, but not all carry the same ratios. Example Gem gear sets provide a 1.48:1 third gear and a 1.14:1 fourth gear. Crown close ratio gears give 1.43:1 in third gear and 1:1 in fourth gear. Stock VW bug third gear is 1.26:1 and fourth gear has a 92:1 overdrive.
E)Later model transmissions have snap rings on the main and pinion shafts, as retainers, instead of the lock washer and nut arrangement found on earlier models. These snap rings are weak points and are failure prone.
F)Late type gear boxes come with a brass shifter fork for first and second gear. These brass forks are weak and bend easily. Older gear boxes came with steel forks. (See photo.) But if you can't get them, special chrome moly shift forks are available that won't bend or break under hard shifting. Shift fork adjustment must be made with the nose cone bolted down under full torque or accuracy of adjustment will be off.
11)If the car is to be shifted hard, as In drag racing, the detent slots on the shifting rod should be ground deeper and wider - this will give a more positive feel of gear engagement, but it also leaves the shift lever a little sloppy. Pressure on the detent balls can be increased by shimming the springs with washers. Be sure to replace old plugs (especially if they are the plastic kind) using aluminum ones.
12)Mounting the transaxle In street driven cars - stick to the stock mounts and use a special trans-straps available for a better hold down. Both front and rear straps are recommended.
Solid transmission mounts transmit alot of noise and vibration to the car, but off road vehicles need things as sturdy as possible. Each gearbox should be custom mounted to provide accuracy, as horn distances are slightly different from chassis to chassis. This isn't critical when stock rubber mounts are used. The shift linkage will also have to be checked and adjusted each time the box is removed and replaced when using solid mounts. On midengined cars, a front engine mount is needed to prevent the case of the trans from cracking.
13)OTHER ODDS AND ENDS
Dissamble the clutch, throw out bearing arm assembly and clean it thoroughly. In order to have it move freely, lubricate it well and before reassembling it reweld the flat arms that hold the throw out bearing. (Note how they are only lightly tack welded.)
B)Safety wire the throw out bearing retainer clips.
C)When using a super strong clutch it's a good idea to use a hydraulic system. The stock clutch cable stretches and/or breaks. You'll never experience anything like being stopped in traffic with the pedal in and having the clutch cable break, not to mention the DNF's on race day. Transporter ball bearing type throw out bearings are most suitable when using strong pressure plates.
D)For that extra measure of insurance, inspect all ferrous parts by magnfluxing. Inspect all magnesium and aluminum parts by zygloing. This insures only sound reliable parts are used. Remember: You're only as strong as your weakest point.
E)If using alot more than stock horse power, take it easy In first gear. Avoid wheel spinning starts in first. Baby it and things last alot longer.
F)When starting an event preload the drive train by letting out a little clutch with the handbrake on. This takes up all the slack in the gearbox and eliminates any shocking, snapping gear action.

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